Punta de Teno: the most western point of Tenerife

We walked four kilometres and 5417 steps, but only because we went by bus to Punta de Teno. It is not possible to go there by car, as the roads are blocked during the day. A good thing because shoo! that road going through the mountain/s is snakey curvy…ssss…very high…don’t look down, too late…faint…and quite narrow. The views though. Fantastic! One can walk up, oh hell no, or use a bicycle, say what?, take a taxi or go by bus. A big green bus. BIG. BUS. They run often and drop you at the nearest point to the lighthouse. Here’s a shout out to those amazing bus drivers. Nerves of steel and always smiling.

We walked up to see the lighthouse first. Up. It was not accessible, that is, we could only see it through a gap in the locked gate, or from other points, one of which was climbing up the rock to the left, quite precarious, and probably not allowed, but you know, curiosity and all that…If we were able to get a bit nearer, without shivering knees from the top, or walk through the gate at the bottom, we would have liked to see the older lighthouse, anno 1890’s, in the front. It was not very high, only about seven or so metres and built with stones from the nearby island of La Gomera, that can be clearly or not so clearly seen, depending on the weather, from here. The new one is about twenty metres high and was built in the 1970’s.

This little corner of Tenerife was, for us, one of the hottest parts of the island. Don’t move and you’re fried. There are no trees here. No shade. Nada. Unless you’re a lizard. There’s not much to see or do if you’re looking for action, but the view of the mountains, the sea, the almost arid nature around it…estupendo! It somehow exudes this very calm, serene, beautiful and peaceful aura. One feels like ohming…but with all that heat it’s better to glugg-glugg, or take a dip…

If we had known how hot it would be, we would have brought our swimming stuff with us. The water looked so inviting! Imagine floating in the water and having all those views in front of you! Instead we took the bus back after only two hours spent on the peninsula.

Semana Santa Garachico 2023 – Easter in Garachico

The whole Easter celebration in Garachico started on a Sunday, fifth of March and ended on a Sunday, the sixteenth of April. Six whole weeks of events, church services and processions. We really had no idea that we would end up participating in and/or celebrating many days and nights of processions and social gatherings with the locals. It was the most unexpected and an absolute highlight of our stay here. The first inkling of what was to come was while relaxing on the balcony under a beautiful starry night sky, were the church bells tolling in a monotone bing-bing. Not long afterwards we heard what sounded like a choir singing in our street. Oh-oh! Was there a slurpy too many of local white wine, you know, Cherubim Seraphim chants and harps, or what was going on? We took a look and saw a lovely black adorned statue of the Virgin Mary, surrounded by beautiful lights and flowers (reflex sign of the cross, forgot glass in hand) accompanied by a priest (see you in the box tomorrow), altar boys and the local community. The priest read a few petitions, all praised and prayed, and the singing continued. Also on the balcony. False-shitto. The next day we found the full programme of the Semana Santa displayed at the town square. Whoa! This was going to be good!

view from our balcony on a priest in the streets

Here are some photos and impressions of the most important celebrations of the Easter Week. Processions were mainly between the Parish of Santa Ana, and the Church of the Immaculate Conception, passing through the Plaza de la Libertad (the main square) and sometimes going to the Plaza de Santo Domingo.

Palm Sunday (celebrar la Entrada de Jesús en Jerusalén)

The Last Supper/Holy Thursday (Jueves Santo en la Cena del Señor)

It was quite a serious moment when the procession left the Santa Ana church. So serious that a barking dog on someone’s balcony was shushed by all and sundry. Woof-woof-SHHHH! It was also a full moon night. Notice that Judas is the only one without a halo…

Jueves Santo en la Cena del Señor

Good Friday (Viernes Santo en la Pasión del Señor)

Processions on this day were long. Day and night. The one during the day was four hours long, with the Stations of the Cross walk and the Crucification. The first part leaving the Santa Ana Church was the Carrying of the Cross. This was a very sombre and quiet procession. No music. No drums. No church bells. Just quiet reflection and prayers. Fourteen barefooted congregants each held a cross that they placed at each of the fourteen stations along the way, the last cross at Plaza de Santo Domingo, the symbolic hill on “Calvary”. We all gathered to listen to a very emotional sermon and to pray. Then the Hanging on the Cross statue was carried out of the church and brought to the front of the procession for the long walk back to Santa Ana. 

Nazareno, Viernes Santo en la Pasión del Señor

In the evening the procession started from Santa Ana after a church service commemorating the seven last words from the cross…

Burial processions. A group of uniformed men, probably a guard of honour, carried the cross through the main square and then took it away. Later the body, covered in beautiful shimmering cloths with candles around it, was carried back to Santa Ana.

Easter Saturday (Sábado Santo Vigilia Pascual en la Noche Santa)

It was going to be a very late in the evening procession, including an all night vigil, so we chose to skip it. We. Were. Tired. The bed was calling. Around ten-ish we answered the call. One of us has a pillow problem. After tossing and turning, a perfect position was found and then both fell into a deep deep slumber. Zzzz. Miracles do happen hee-hee. Then it happened. One of us was thrown out of bed. Thrown. Out. Of. Bed. Launched. So this is it. The volcano is erupting! Staggering to the balcony and wondering why the hairy one is not panicking, or screaming or showing any kind of reaction for that matter (checked out or what?), it took a lot of courage not to scream. Boom! Boom! Another deafening boom! Smoke. O. Mg. Oxygen. Magnesium. This is the end! Then the realisation. Glitter in the sky. Fireworks. Oh. But seriously, when someone is paranoid about the volcano erupting, then maybe ringing the church bells and setting off fireworks at 00h54 is not a good idea. Oh, okay, so we should have known, but still…Yep, living across from the church has its advantages heh-heh…And the hairy one??? He thought it was funny…yep…

Easter Sunday (Domingo de Pascua de la Resurrección del Señor)

The day of the resurrection and solemn procession of the Sacrament.

Second Sunday of Easter (II Domingo de Pascua o de la Divina Misericordia)

Procession from Santa Ana of the Resurrected to meet the Virgin of Glory. At the same time a procession from the Church of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin of Glory to meet the Resurrected. The two processions then met, facing each other, and all of us gathered around for prayers and singing. Then both proceeded to the town square and back to Santa Ana. A wonderful and amazing end of Easter 2023.

The People

Here are some of the main players of Garachico, plus a very elegant lady and her beautiful sandals. She was at all the processions too. These photos were taken with their permission and they happily agreed for us to post it on our blog. The band was amazing. Young, old, and in-between, all marching and playing music to suit the mood of every single procession. The last day they did an honour march to a resounding applause from all of us. Thank you. Gracias! The beautiful ladies in traditional Spanish attire are locals (not widows as some thought) and are specially selected to accompany all the processions. They exuded such elegance and walked with pride alongside the statues each and every day. There were some men in the group too. All were magnificent, awesome and tremendous. And friendly. Very friendly. Muchas Gracias!

The Museum – all the statues are kept in here.

Midnight in Garachico

As a child we’d all gather evenings in the lounge to listen to stories on the radio. One particular story, about cops and robbers, really had us biting our nails in anticipation. Every new episode would always start with these words, and in a deep serious sounding male voice: they prowl the empty streets at night, waiting…So there we were, almost five decades later, waiting. Waiting until all the tourists left town for the day. Waiting for everyone to sleep. Waiting to take a walk. Waiting for midnight. We had this crazy idea to prowl the empty streets of Garachico, just-because-wink-wink. At the stroke of twelve there were a few people still around, like the owner of a small coffee shop closing for the night, or was that morning, and three others from a corner restaurant chatting and laughing as they locked the doors. Also a dog somewhere made a gonna-sleep-now-woof-woof noise, but some minutes later, silencio. Tranquil. Soft. Shhhh!

The view from our rooftop terrace of the lovely moon, left, and the other view from the old harbour towards the whereabouts of where we are staying, showing the dark black mountains on our backs. Yep, we have lava rocks outside the bedrooms…Eeep, but loveleeeeeeee…

The Plaza de la Libertad, with the Santa Ana Church nearby, was so hear-the-pin-drop quiet. This is usually the busiest area of Garachico. People. Birds. Children. Church bells. Coffee drinkers. Ice cream slurpers. Tour guides. Camera clicks. Talking about church bells. They ring every hour, and one little tinkle every half hour right up until midnight. The tolling of the new day starts again at seven, methinks…

The streets and alleys of Garachico. Just us and cobblestones. Standing in the middle of this normally busy road would be impossible during the day (last photo), as this is one of the main coastal routes in Tenerife. A very beautiful and interesting route, so very popular.

The sights and sounds of the ocean, the sea, the water, the crashing waves, the whatever, and a lone fisherman sitting in the “door without door” waiting for some thingies to nibble. Is life not beautiful? Especially at midnight!

One month in Garachico

Tenerife is the largest, most populated and most visited island of the Canaries, a group of islands conquered by Spain around the middle to late fourteen hundreds, the fifteenth century. Spain had a tough time conquering Tenerife, an almost three decade long tough time, until the Guanches, the indigenous inhabitants at the time, finally surrendered. It’s quite admirable how they fought so long for their island and could only be defeated because Spain had fifteenth century high-tech weapons. Yay to the Guanches! Nay because they no longer exist. Colonial genocide. History.

We landed at Tenerife South airport sometime in the afternoon, got our rental car and off we went. We took the wrong exit. Three kilometres later and driving in the wrong direction, the car screamed. Ding-ding-ding-non-stop-ding. Seatbelt? Nope, we were buckled up. It was the rucksack. On the back seat. Car is small. Car wanted the rucksack to be seat-belted. Car waited three kilometres before it shouted. Make that understandable. So there we were, on a busy highway with impatient motorists, ding-ding-ding. The problem was solved in mid-drive. Passenger with large hindquarters touching windscreen managed to shut the dang ding-ding up. Rucksack ended on the floor. Phew! We found our way back on track so could finally enjoy the ride. The first-time-she-is-here person was not so impressed. Traffic. More traffic. Big city vibes. Holiday resort concrete jungle. Where’s the glamour? Thankfully the scenery changed. Ooh. Aah. Ohhh. Less traffic, with the ocean to the left and the imposing mountains to the right. Fifteen minutes later…yelp! OMG! Everything went uphill from there. Curvy mountain roads, Very curvy. Up, up, UP! Into the clouds we went. Visibility was zilch, zero, niente, nada. Spooky. We crawled up the mountain. On one occasion there was a gap in the clouds, and there it was, the magnificent volcano, Teide. A quick ooh-aah and back into the clouds we went. So what, we were nearer to heaven or not? Not. The GPS guided us along, away from the main road, all the way through the narrowest of narrow streets, just to get us back to the same main road. Clever little so and so, eh? Just when we thought it could not get any scarier, and the passenger holding a gag bag, the clouds cleared and there it was, right there at the bottom of the mountain, Garachico.

Our holiday rental is a four-bedroom penthouse apartment in the centre of this beautiful town, with no elevator and a total of sixty one steps, plus one, to climb. Despite the central location, it is not noisy at all. All we hear are birds. Lots and lots of birds. There is a large church right in front of us, with amazing sea views to the left and right. Everything is within walking distance, uphills and downhills, but so what, them knees they be cracking anyways.

View from our apartment by day and night

During the day there are many tourists in Garachico. Bus loads. In the evening it’s almost like a ghost town, except for the church bells tolling. Why is this town so popular? First of all, the history. Believe it or not, Garachico was founded by an Italian. This was also once a very bustling and wealthy town with a strategically famous sea port, the first in Tenerife. Then the Montana Negra volcano erupted in 1706. A whole week lava flowed, covering the port and destroying most of the town. Garachico rose from the ashes, but was never used as a port again. What they have done though was preserve its historical charm. This can be seen in every street or plaza. The buildings. The balconies. The locals. The whole seafront is so pretty, where the sea sometimes is turquoise, sometimes just blue, or silver grey, or just grey and other times in-between. There are also many tidal pools created from the lava, popular in the summer season.

Views of Garachico

Almost all the balconies are made of wood, adding a lot of charm to this attractive town.

Walk the streets, look through some large open doors and you will be amazed at all the treasures you will find, like this 17th-century former Augustinian convent of San Julian.

A little away from the crowded centre you will find this lovely I.E.S. Garachico Alcalde Lorenzo Dorta building. A high school. Wow!

The former 17th Century Dominican Convent and the Plaza de Santo Domingo. This was one of the few buildings not destroyed by the 1706 volcanic eruption.

Centre of Garachico

Some views of the coast and coastline, also showing a stainless steel sculpture called El Pez (the fish). A symbol of gratitude to the men of the sea and also as an indication of the gastronomy of Garachico. The other statue, al Motin del Vino (the wine riot), is made with white Carrara marble and lava from Garachico. The statue shows the how the Canarian wine growers battled against the English monopolising their whole wine producing industry.

View of the little port of Garachico from a strange area with many paved paths lined with palm trees and lamp posts. It seems abandoned and mostly fenced in.

Iglesia de Santa Ana (Church of Saint Anne) founded in the early 1500’s and fortunately not completely destroyed by the Montana Negra volcanic eruption. Santa Ana is the patron saint of Garachico.

Castillo de San Miguel (Saint Michael’s Castle), built in the 16th century to protect the then vitally important harbour. It was not destroyed by the eruption, but lost status when Garachico lost its economic importance.

La Puerta de Tierra (The Land Gate) the entrance to Garachico before 1706, where all people, products, commodities etc. had to pass through. The entrance still stands, but now the area is a quiet and serene park filled with trees and flowers.

More of the coastal areas with lovely sculptures as follows: The Tensei Tenmoku (Doorless Door or Door without door) is a white Carrara marble sculpture by a Japanese artist. Then there’s the Las Pescaderas (the Fishwife) dedicated to the fisher women of Garachico. Last but not least is a large modern stainless steel structure with no obvious name or details.

Playa de Garachico (Garachico beach), a lava stone beach and Piscinas Naturales de El Caletón (the Caleton natural tidal pools)

View of San Pedro de Daute from Garachico

The Cactus Garden in Guatiza

If you think that after climbing around the Rofera rocks, or walking through the market in Teguise, or maybe running around a volcanic crater would knock us out for a six, then yes, you would be absolutely right! After all, we’re not so young anymore wink-wink. We were really pooped so we headed back to our holiday appartment, and guess what, the driver, yours truly, left the highway one exit too early. This meant driving through one or two villages hoping to get see a sign that said “yay, you are nearly home”. None of that! So just as we were contemplating to make a u-turn and go all the way back to the highway, we saw a huge, big huge, eight metres high huge, metal cactus thingy on the side of the road, and a windmill sort of behind it. Wow! Stop! Yes, the brakes were slammed on (easy when you’re driving like a snail heehee) and we found somewhere to park…in a muddy puddle of water, but hey, whatever. We first walked around the outside of the fenced-in park “just to take a photo of two of the windmill” but then that “curiosity-killed-the-cat” thing got hold of us so we paid and went in. Suddenly there were no tired feet nor big teary yawnings, instead just open-mouthed awe at what greeted us behind the entrance. Cacti in all shapes and sizes!

The Jardín de Cactus is worth a visit for cactus lovers and also if, like us, you appreciate the works of Lanzarote’s very own, and internationally renowned artist, the late César Manrique. This garden was apparently the very last landscape masterpiece he created in 1991, the year before he tragically died in a car accident.

One can argue about it being too small or boring, or about the price of the entrance fee, but come on, there are at least one thousand different species of cacti from all over the world in there. Some are pretty, others a bit ugly and there are strange ones too, and this is what makes it all the more interesting.

Oh, and the singing birds, the fishies, the juicy cactus fruit and again, the windmill.

Then there’s the amazing César touch to be found all over, some quite naughty…oops!

 

 

 

 

Castillo de Santa Barbara

Not long after we left the rock formations of Rofera, we saw this imposing building sitting on an extinct volcano. You simply cannot miss it. We did not think that it was a tourist attraction as we did not have any information about it, but meandering through the busy market in the historical town of Teguise, you look up, and there it is. We decided that it was worth a visit for after when the market closed. We wanted to walk all the way up, but the heavy and dark clouds were threatening to burst, again, and besides who wants to still exert themselves after eating some delicious ice-cream. We went up by car. Good choice when the weather is not so good, and bad choice because parking space was precarious and non-existant due to so many visitors. We were very lucky though. Just as the right front wheel of the car started dangling over the “cliff” a car right in front of us moved out and we quickly slipped into the parking space. Whew! The passenger could breathe again and there would be no need for a helicopter to lift the car out of the crater.

The Castillo de Santa Bárbara (Saint Barbara Castle) was built as a fortress to ward off danger especially when pirates kept on attacking the island. It also served as a refuge for the locals during hostile invasions. As mentioned before, it sits on the rim of a crater in an extinct volcano, the Mt. Guanapay. It is really worth a visit, especially for the views.

 

 

 

The entrance is via a draw-bridge and not free of charge. We only had an hour before closing time so we whoosh-whooshed through the stone hallways, getting lost too, but we managed to find the exit to the top…

 

 

One could argue if it is worth spending a few euros each per person to enter the castle as there is not much to see inside other than a small pirate museum that would interest children more. Oh, okay, so maybe some adults too, but the only way to get up to the top to enjoy the vast views is to pay an entrance fee to the museum.

 

After they closed up, we decided to walk around the crater. It was bigger than we expected so we panicked…well, one of us did, because…what if they close the road and we were not able to get out. Hmmm…Anyway, we climbed, we trotted, we ran, we got wet. Yep, it started drizzling. When we were about halfway through, they boomed on the megaphone…don’t know what, but we took it that it was time to leave. No problem, we made it to the car, almost on all fours, but we made it. In retrospect it would have been better to walk around the castle and the crater instead of going inside. The views were just as amazing.

Teguise – Sunday is market day

Lanzarote was probably named after an Italian seafarer, Lancelotto. The village of Teguise was named after Princess Teguise, who was the great-granddaughter of the aboriginal inhabitant and ruling king of the island when Lancelotto arrived. Teguise is one, if not, the oldest Spanish settlement of the Canary Islands and sits almost in the middle of the island, (east to west) yet only about ten kilometres from the coast. Every Sunday morning, Teguise hosts one of the biggest and important markets of the Canaries, where you can find lots of local crafts, ceramics, cheeses, wines and other interesting stuff, like freshly pressed cactus juice. When we were there, a local brass band played lovely music from Western movies. Unfortunately there are also lots of stalls selling cheap knock-offs and those “made-in-…” rubbish fabrics. Does not matter, because we were only interested in all the local products and experiencing the amazing and vibrating atmosphere at the market. We really enjoyed every single loud and crazy moment!

Below are photos of the entrance to the market, their lovely church, freshly pressed cactus juice and the biggest sweet potatoes we had ever seen.

The Church of our Lady of Guadalupe (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe) dominates the town and is the tallest building in Teguise which can be seen from any vantage point. There’s a big square in front of the church, the Constitution Square (Plaza de la Constitución) with two bronze lion statues and sculpture of a dancer from the group Rancho de Pascuas.

The famous granary building, called the “cillas” (below – top left) was built in 1680 to store all the grains that the townsfolk were forced to tithe from their harvests once a year to the clergy. The building was renovated in the 1980’s.

Palm trees are plenty, and the typical white-washed facades which can be found all over the island.

“The Palacio de Marques is the oldest building on the island, dating back to 1455 when it was finally completed after a lengthy 32-year construction process.” quoted from the official website of Teguise. The government headquarters of Lanzarote for about two hundred and seventy years it’s now a wine and tapas bar (see below)

Oh, and when we thought that another storm was brewing, the thunder-clapping kind hahahaha, it was “only” this aerobatic squadron flying over…ooh, the noise!

IMG_0486

ps: The market opens at nine in the morning and closes five hours later. We arrived just a bit more than two hours before closing time so had lots of time to see all the stalls and visit some important historical buildings. As soon as the clock strikes two, they all start packing up and people leave the town. An hour later you’d wonder if there’s any life in the village, that’s how “dead” suddenly becomes. This was our opportunity to explore a bit more, especially as one could see the architecture much better!

 

 

Rofera de Teseguite

One of the most surprising things in life is when you come upon something you just never expected to see. This was one such moment when we were on our way to a Sunday market in Teguise.  Shortly after jumping off the LZ-1 main road and before reaching the nearby village Teseguite, seemingly out of nowhere !whoa-what-is-that! there they were, strange yet amazing rock formations jutting out of the landscape. So we scree..ee..eeched to a halt and got out to explore. This was the only place we’d seen something like this in all the time we had been on the island. As Lanzarote is an island of volcanic origin, these rocks have apparently been, over many many years, been weathered down from volcanic cones…Maravilloso!

 

Don’t these below look regal and proud??

 

The whole landscape is in a sort of ravine, with this huge volcano (left) on one side

 

Nothing was too high or too “dangerous” to climb for a good photo…hmmm…

 

Punta Mujeres

Punta Mujeres is a pretty little village on the north-east cost on the island of Lanzarote. It does not seem to be overfilled with tourists as there are many locals living here. We rented a two-floor appartment with a huge rooftop terrace which could be reached from the main bedroom. The building had a sea view to the front and the volcano views at the back. One extinct volcano, the Monte Corona could be easily seen from here. Our neighbours were all locals, so we had very loud ones to our left and a charming old lady who loved talking to us on the right. The village is very lively and there are many restaurants to go to for some typical local food and conversation. Our Spanish is not great but we still manage to “talk” and laugh with everyone. There are also a few rock pools where everyone seemed to swim in, except us of course…no time…We found it easy and comfortable travelling to all interesting (for us) points on the island from Punta Mujeres, and it’s also not far from the main airport.

Here are a few photos of our appartment and view. The main bedroom and the view from the terrace, with our first sunrise and at the exact same time, a rainbow at the back. How is that for wonderful???

 

The “flora and fauna” were also interesting, especially the cats…oh, and does this white heron have green feet??

 

Lovely painted wall murals

 

Look closely and you will see the name of the village on the windmill. The clouds over the village looked scarier than they were.

 

 

Islas de Cies

Sunday, 5th of June and a trip to another island was on the cards. This time one more “wild” and “isolated” and only accessible via boat or ferry. The Cies Islands (Islas de Cies) is only a forty five minute ferry ride from the port of Vigo. If you intend to visit it, tickets should be booked in advance, either via internet or directly at the harbour. The reason for this is that only a certain number of people/humans are allowed on the island at any given time, so it says wherever you read up or ask about it. The reality, in our eyes, is somewhat different. We did the right thing and asked our hotel receptionist to pre-book our return ticket. We felt sooooo lucky to have gotten two places on the ferry. When we arrived at the harbour, we were amazed at the crowds waiting to embark. People en masse, with prams, cooler boxes, umbrellas and bags, lots and lots of bags (looked like an entire household had been packed). Yes, we did not expect the whole city to migrate to the best beach in the area, and most of all we did not expect thousands to be on an island that was declared a natural reserve in 1980 due to “the deterioration it was suffering by human activity”.

The ferry was packed to the brim, so one of us (the scared of living water one) sort of cowered in the corner nearest to the life-belts, while the other put his arms around her as assurance. The ferry ride was smooth and loud. No, not the engines, but the animated conversations all around us. We could call it excitement, but no, it is normal as Spanish is a very fast (zoom-zoom) language and mostly spoken out loud, which is so amazing. After disembarking, we decided to walk up to the highest point of the island, and so did almost everyone. It looked like everyone wanted to first check out the “scenery” before settling down on the beaches. The later it got, the emptier the walkways, the fuller the beaches. The island is beautiful, but not as “wild” as we expected as the paths, though very stoney at some parts, are all pre-determined. It is also possible to camp on the island.

Oh how happy and relieved we are that we made it up the zig-zig path all the way to the very top of Alto Montefaro. Okay, so it was only a climb of 175 metres, but a climb it was, and it was very hot, despite all the clouds!

The views from the top were amazing! We also walked to other interesting points on the island, but unfortunately did not manage to see everything the island had to offer, even though we were there for seven whole hours.

The flora here was quite interesting too. We think that we “discovered” an unusual orchid (the red one) but not so sure as there is no information to be found anywhere.

Beautiful natural rock formations which seems to be a popular photo setting for many. There are warning signs everywhere forbidding anyone to climb on them, but gee, who notices or reads these signs, or who cares! Every single person that came to this rock (even children were pulled up) seemed to have one reason and one reason only, and that is to take a photo of themselves standing in or near the “hole”. We had to wait for ages to take these photos sans people.

The island also boasts a huge colony of seagulls and at the moment they are all in the middle of their breeding season. There were many chicks to be seen. It is not difficult to spot them, but when you hear a sudden shriek or bird “roar” near to you, then you just happened upon a mother sitting on her chicks. She is warning you to either stay away, or to be careful…See how one of the mother’s giving us the eye 😀

Apart from these two lovebirds in the first photo, it was the saddest drama that we’ve ever experienced. On our way to another viewing point, we passed these two lovely little chicks who were, on loud instructions from mama, cowering in the corner of the rock. When we returned about thirty minutes later, we noticed that the mother was making “distressing” noises. We also noticed that one chick was missing. Then we saw it in the brush below. The poor little mite must have slipped off the rock. The mother kept on encouraging it to climb back up, at the same time also making sure that her other chick stays put in the corner. As the chick seemed to have nearly reached the top, a sudden whoosh and another seagull grabbed the little one by the neck. OMG! The mother attacked back with all her fury and thankfully her other baby squeezed itself into the corner and was safe. We saw this sly seagull and thought it was the father sitting there and “doing nothing”. By the way, all photos were taken with a zoom lens, so we were not invading any seagull “space”.

Apart from seagulls there were also many lizards sunning themselves on the rocks. Most were tiny black ones, and these green ones were bigger and shyer.

All in all a very happy day, with sore feet and tired legs. Believe it or not, but we walked a total of 12,3 kilometres!