Day 8: Adventure day…(skip if you have heart problems)

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen

Oops, we did it again! With sunshine predicted for the whole day, we chose a three and a half hour hike (double that for us) from Sassnitz to Lohme. This coastal route is entirely in the Jasmund National Park, with lovely views of the coastline from the top of these amazing cliffs. The er…uhm…official coastal route…We could not wait to see the shore, so took the first wooden steps down, and had this amazing view of the chalk cliffs.

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen             Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Piratenschlucht (Pirate Gorge) - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen

This view of the same part of the cliffs can be seen from above. A few metres more and then the next flight of steps going down, to a little gorge called the Piratenschlucht (Pirate Gorge). This was apparently the hide-out of a famous pirate called Klaus Störtebecker. Sorry, no gold coins found…

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen  Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen

We stayed on the coast. Look at all the obstacles in our way! It did not look so bad from a distance, but as we got nearer, it was obvious that we had to crawl under these trees (at different points), or climb over. Or paddle in the water. We crawled on all fours!

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Landslide - Jasmund National Park - Island of RügenH.E.L.P! Landslide ahead! Again, it did not look threatening from our viewpoint, and we were now getting used to overcoming obstacles…ahem…We could definitely not turn back now, so we crawled over more dead branches, scrambled over soft, unstable and crumbling earth…Scary…but we made it!

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Landslide - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen                                    Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen

If we had walked up on the cliff as we were supposed to be doing, we wouldn’t have had the pleasure of this amazing view. It is scary and very imposing walking under these! Look at the trees dangling on the edges. A huff and a puff and they would certainly fall over and come crashing down. Oooh…the excitement and the rush! Also on the left photo we´re nearing the landslide…Oh boy!

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of RügenNo, this photo is NOT skew. This tree is really growing horizontally!! ..and we’re under it!

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen…looking back to where we’ve just lost a litre each of water (beads of perspiration) and skipped a few heartbeats..The next ascent to the top is still VERY far away…

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen                                    Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen

This is why it was still worth all the trouble. Great! But do you see all those stones and rocks dangling so loosely on the cliff???!!! We ran, uhm…no…SPRINTED, past this one as quickly as we could… Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen

Feeling like ants looking at this imposing cliff. It is HUGE, and all eyes were on every point, in case of crumbling…More loss of beady water   😉

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of RügenMaking progress. Another “oh-we-made-it” view. Notice that the cliff is not as white as the others, due to more moisture…(not from us)

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen                                    Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen

Look at these babies! Grandioso!

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of RügenMore aaaahhhh!

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of RügenMore arghhhhh! (Well, at least we’re over that one…)

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of RügenCould be a giant pot plant! Wow!

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of RügenSwans. Ships. Boats. Obstacles.

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen

Rocks ‘n boats

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Bottoms of Swans - Jasmund National Park - Island of RügenBottoms up! Swans looking for something to nibble on. There were quite a few, which sort of calmed us down. Would swans concentrate in a dangerous area? Of course not!

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of RügenHigh. Higher. Highest. Standing under this is…well…you know…

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of RügenMore swans, and a lovely view of the horizon. The water at this shore was also very white. On all the coasts we’ve been to on the island, this was the only time we’ve seen this…

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen…peaceful, serene, quiet…and then you go around the corner…

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen

…and oh-oh-oh-no! Another landslide…

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen  Muddy shoes after sinking knee deep into the very sticky mud

…Olympic hurdles. Up to now everything went well, when suddenly, at the last hurdle, panting and puffing, yours truly sunk knee deep into the very sticky mud. See the proof on the right photo. IT. WAS. SCARY. Thankfully, with a lot of muscle power (No, not mine. Thank you my Superhero! ), the very stuck-in-the-mud foot could be pulled out, and without losing the shoe. Geez, wonder how much deeper I would have sunk…

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen…made it! Nearing the steps…

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - waterfall right at ascent point called Kieler Ufer - Jasmund National Park - Rügen…a seven metre waterfall right at the ascent point, called Kieler Ufer. Halleluja!

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen                                    Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen

We climbed up those steps. FAST! But we’re still close to the edge over here (well, not the phobic breathless shaking one   😉  wink-wink…)

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen                                    Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen

Look at this! Shrubs and berries growing on the side of the cliff (left). The one on the right shows the spectacular view from the Kollicker point towards the Wissower shore in the foreground, and the Gakower shore. This is postcard perfect!

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Horizontal Tree - Jasmund National Park - Island of RügenHorizontal tree defying logic! Aahhh…nature…

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of RügenTarzan, the daring one with the camera, is virtually dangling over the cliffs! He is standing on a platform at Victoriasicht (Victoria view), which is precariously jutting out at least two metres, and over nothing! It’s a long way down…but beautiful…

Coastal route from Sassnitz to Lohme - Jasmund National Park - Island of Rügen…one hundred metres from top to bottom…see the lovely shadows of the cliffs cast on the shore.

The view of the famous Konigsstühl (King’s chair???) taken from Victoriasicht - Island of RügenThe view of the famous Konigsstühl (King’s chair???) taken from Victoriasicht…and he’s still standing on that jutting thing…shiver….

412 steps down to the beach from Königsstuhl - Island of RügenYep, we walked down these. Again. Do NOT be fooled by the red kiddie’s bicycle parked so nicely at the bottom of these steps. There are 412 of them! (Steps, not bicycles) It says so on a wooden board at the top, warning you that it is quite strenuous, so please be sure you want to descend. We were sure. It’s only 412, so how bad can it be. Ha! Going down was sort of easy (knees ow-ow), but going back UP! They must’ve miscalculated, because we definitely ‘puff-puff’ counted ‘pant-pant’ more! It WAS strenuous, especially for the short-legged one, who had trouble keeping her upper body vertical! And then to crown it all, the red bicycle owner just whizzed past, babbling and not even out of breath. GEEZ!

View of Königsstuhl from the beach - Island of RügenHere the cliffs have very lush greenery clinging to its sides. The view of the Konigsstühl again…

Pedestrian bridge leading down to the harbour of Sassnitz - Island of RügenAfter all that exciting adventure, we finally arrived in Lohme, and paid a visit to friends, who kindly drove us back to Sassnitz, to pick up our car. On the way we stopped at this pedestrian bridge leading down to the harbour of Sassnitz. OMG! It is high!

Pedestrian bridge leading down to the harbour of Sassnitz - Island of Rügen…see how high? and snake-like? View from the almost bottom part of the bridge, towards the harbour. A storm seems to be brewing too…

Pedestrian bridge leading down to the harbour of Sassnitz - Island of RügenProof that I fought my demons and walked on that OMG snake!!! Okay, so I was holding tightly onto very helpful arms, and my knuckles were white, but I am STANDING! and with a smile…So there! Nyeh-nyeh!   :-p

Day 2: Kap Arkona, here we come!

After a very good night’s sleep (it helps when the bed is comfortable), we decided to do a hiking tour of Kap Arkona (Cape Arcona). It is one of the favourite areas in Rügen to visit, and is situated at the most northern tip of the island. According to the hiking guide, it would only be a two hour twenty minute walk. All together now. Laugh out loud. LOL! We will tell you more about the timing later …


To get there, we had to take the Wittower ferry (see above left) across a tiny strip of water. As the car could not fit on it, it had to be towed behind. What?? There is no bridge. You could swim over I suppose, but it is not allowed.
So you really believed that? Hee…heeee…No, this is the real ferry. It probably only took five minutes to cross over. Five nail biting minutes for some-one with all sorts of watery fears and phobias!


After another 15 or so minutes of driving, we parked our car, packed our bananas, and excitedly started our tour. We could have taken this comfortable, faster and oh so touristy train at least halfway up to our next point of interest, but NO, we opted to walk. After all, we were still fresh and fit. The first stage would only take twenty minutes. Forward! March!

Okay, walking has it’s advantages too. Look what we found. Sea Buckthorn, or as it is known on the island, Sanddorn! It was our first ‘sighting’ of many many many MANY more. These are everywhere and in everything. In jams, in tea, in cakes, in juices, in creams, in sauces, and yes, in BEER! Basically, in EVERYTHING … See, even the snail likes it …

Horse power. Another popular mode of transport, which can be quite inviting when your legs are weary. We were still FIT and energized, so we carried on walking … Cute though, aren’t they?? All of them …


We then reached this lovely little fishing village called Vitt, and not after twenty minutes. We’ll leave it at that. This village only has thirteen houses, twenty four residents and these pretty pink hydrangeas. We do not know about cats and dogs, but there are many many birds too …

We also found this smoked fish ‘factory’. There are many of these on the island. It’s basically out of the sea, into the smoker, onto a bread roll, chomp, chomp and chew, then into your stomach. You get a lot of smoked eel too…so who needs a burger joint!


The harbour of Vitt. Is this not a fantastic photo? For a small village, they sure have a lot of boats. Wonderful, not so??

The protective barrier, still at Vitt harbour. Believe me, it gets very windy, huffing and puffing and blowing everything over …


This is the coastline at Vitt, with a view of Kap Arkona, showing the amazing Chalk cliffs (Kreidefelsen). That is our next point to reach. Yep, that one over th-ee-ee-ere…. There are two options getting there. Along this coastline, from Vitt, but not recommended by the authorities. It is quite dangerous, due to the crumbling cliffs, especially after rains or stormy windy weather. We chose the other recommended route, along the top of the cliffs.

Don’t look down. Don’t. Look. Down. Too late, we looked, then went down … down … down …

… and arrived here … The descent was worth it, even though the shore is very stony and pebbly, with not a single seashell in site. There are quite a lot of flint stones (nooooo … not the ones from Bedrock), so collect these instead. You might need it someday … Better still, fill your pockets with some chunks of chalk … messy chunks of chalk … And … hum, do not wear black!

Yours truly sitting on her throne! From here one has a lovely panoramic view over the coast of Kap Arkona. Take your time to enjoy the view. It helps when the legs are weary…We’re halfway there! Phew…

This photo emphasises the beauty and the contrast of deep blue sea, grey shore, green vegetation and white steep cliff…Aaahhhhh…

Aahhhh again. An imposing view! There are many swallows’ nests up there too…Invites one to stare, open-mouthed…

Look at this contrast against the sky! Breathtaking!

View towards the village of Vitt, right at the end over there, to the left…Amazing too is the ‘still life’ of the washed up twigs in contrast to the shore…

Mer-man on the rocks!

An ancient wooden carved Slavic God, with one of two lighthouses in the background. This is at the entrance to the area called the Jaromarsburg, which unfortunately was closed to the public due to crumbling ground and landslides…again…

This is an ‘observation’ tower (was used by the navy many years back) where one has an unobstructed view over the island. We abandoned the thought of climbing up all those stairs. Excuse me! It had nothing to do with our condition…ahem…but there’s an acrophobic running loose…This building also houses an interesting jewellery shop…

There’s the touristy choo-choo again. Is this not another lovely photo??? Sigh…hmmm…

The two lighthouses, right next to one another. The one on the left was built first, and is called ‘the little fat one’. We also think it’s funny. LOL!

The coastline has a lot of rocks, and with the sail boat in the background, shows once again the wonderful contrasts that we admire so much…

The last stage of our ‘official’ route, we walked on the top of the bank, through the trees and bushes, to the end of the west coast, then changed course and walked back along the shore. This was not in the guide book, but we thought it was worth the time and the effort of trying not to trip all over the many many stones…The photo above shows the barred part (no, we did not go there), because last year a big chunk of this broke off…And to end our ‘unofficial’ tour, we had to climb up a lot of steps to get back up again. A LOT! Pant…pant..

So, after all that, we were really happy to rest our feet! Our tour took at least FIVE hours. Okay, stop laughing! Let’s explain why. We are adventurous. And yes, we are in a very good mental and physical condition too. Must be all those bananas…The guide book is just that, a guide. When we discover paths or buildings, or anything interesting for that matter, we WILL explore. And just to show you how fit we are, after ALL this, we still had time to browse in a market, also pay some good friends a visit in Lohme. So there! We did sleep like logs though…hee…heeee…